measuring climbing volume with “reps”
What is a climbing “rep”?
A "rep" is the energy equivalent of completing a climb close to your flash level or harder. This can be either a boulder or a sport climb. This method of measuring volume was first introduced by Dr. Natasha Barnes.
What might count as a rep?
completing the climb
doing it in two halves
repeating a sustained section twice
attempting a limit crux move three times
Use your discretion for what counts as a rep— the important thing is how fatiguing it felt for YOU.
You don't need to include warm-up reps or climbs easier than flash level (unless they felt very fatiguing). We are trying to keep track of the amount of higher intensity climbing you are doing.
If you have a training notebook, you can record reps for each climb using tally marks. For example:
Green V6 front right: III
To Warmer Waters V8 on moonboard: VI
Why do we record reps?
Managing your climbing volume is the best way to prevent overuse injuries. By recording your climbing reps we can adjust your program based on how you feel, and keep you healthy!
You should also vary the terrain and hold types you get on, especially for a higher volume day (more reps).